Amsterdam and the RLD

I just read an interesting article about the government in Amsterdam wanting to eliminate the Red Light District, the red-lit windows of prostitutes, promiscuous activity and provocative sex shops from the city and replacing them with upscale restaurants and bars, shops and galleries. The article claims it would be giving up a $100-million a year industry, with staggering support from the city's residence. Others argue that by taking away the brothels and sex bars, the prostitutes will move to the streets and the tourists will stop visiting Amsterdam.

I have visited Amsterdam and the Netherlands on three different occassions and had three totally different experiences. Each trip was with different people, some more open-minded and willing to experience the city then others. My first visit to the Netherlands was with my Grandparents, who immigrated from the country after WWII, an aunt, uncle, cousins and my sister. The trip was as much about learning about my family history as it was about being a tourist. However, Amsterdam was not on the agenda. I can recall suggesting we visit the city, but my Grandparents were adamantely opposed, saying something like, "Oh, no. You don't want to go there. Amsterdam is a filthy city of questionable value." Others in the group took this at face value and agreed with my Grandparents. I thought this was silly, old-school mentality and we were missing out on some real Dutch "culture," but out of respect for my Grandparents I didn't push the issue. We didn't see Amsterdam on that trip, but I said I'd be back, with eyes wide open. Which I did, eventually.

I returned with my sister several years later. Of course we had heard of the Red Light District and made it our mission to find out what it was all about. Obviously we didn't intend on changing careers, we just wanted to formulate our own conclusions about the city and what it had to offer. While on our search for the RLD, we crossed the gamet - anything from sister missionaries from our church, canals lined with gabeled houses, pastry shops and drug cafes. There were signs strewn across the narrow ally-ways warning of pick-pockets. We saw hippies and yuppies, but no RLD. We couldn't find it. And on this particular day it started to get late so we turned around and headed for what we felt were safer quarters (e.g. our hotel). We never saw the RLD.

My last return to Amsterdam was with Mr. G in early summer of 2007. By now I felt like I knew what the city was all about and really could take or leave a visit to the infamous neighborhood. But, it was still a novelty to Mr. G and he had his own personal mission to visit the place. For being such a poplular place we we struggled to locate the neighborhood, but we eventually found it and and I assure you, you know when you're there. My first thoughts when we walked by the windows, strewn with women of all ages and sizes soliciting sex, was that of a novelty. A show. It wasn't real. Until I saw a man walk out of one of the locations buttoning up his pants and the girl resituating herself in her space. I was immediately disgusted. Sick. Does she have so little dignity or self respect to believe that is the best she can do? And that man -(just one of how many millions that have walked in and out of those doors) what was going through his mind? He was obviously thinking only of himself, his own immediate gratification and sexual desires. What was I expecting? Did I think this was going to be fun? All of these years of hype, wanting to know what it was all about somehow created this imaginary fun-house in my mind. It wasn't fun. It wasn't sexy. It was sad.

I can agree with the dissenters that there is a strong potential for this revolution to backfire. Perhaps prostitution will filter to the streets and the city will see an increase in criminality. There are a series of issues the government in Amsterdam needs to mitigate and resolve before shutting down the District, but there is one thing that I am certain about - and that is the fact that there will be an impact on tourism. For those individuals whose vacation to Amsterdam revolves around the RLD, sure, they will have to relocate (while Amsterdam is the most famous, the RLD isn't exclusive to just this city) or may never return, but there are plenty of people with the same silly, old-school mentality held by my grandparents that Amsterdam is a dirty place. While it will take time and proof of change to really adjust this mentality, I think over time there will be shift. I think Amsterdam will always maintain its reputation for being the most liberal city in the world, but it will also invite a new generation of tourists to a city with a rich culture beyond the RLD.